Colour by numbers

AACS will visit Japan as part of our annual overseas Study Tour
JUDITH ELEN
AUGUST 09, 2014
THE AUSTRALIAN

Momijidani-koen Park is known as the “valley of autumn leaves”. Picture: Alamy Source: Supplied
NATURE, much revered in Japan, rewards its acolytes. Spring’s famous cherry blossoms have their autumn rival in a months-long fiesta of colour that drifts the length of the country, through forests, parks and gardens. Beginning mid-September in the highest mountains of the north, autumn fire progresses through the land into December in the lower-lying city gardens and temples. The Japanese have a word for it, momiji-gari, the tradition of “maple hunting”.

Daisetsuzan National Park, central Hokkaido: Mount Asahidake (2290m) is the highest peak in this mountainous wilderness featuring deer and brown bears, and where hikers hunt the earliest autumn colour from mid-September to early October. Take the aerial tramway from Asahidake Station to Sugatami. Walk (an hour) around Sugatami-ike Pond for spectacular views of the forested mountain across autumn-flowering fields.
Also in the park, Ginsendai (1500m) is at the head of a trail leading to Mount Akadake (2078m). It’s a steep three-hour ascent to the peak, but follow the trail for 30 minutes to reach a slope dense with vibrant nanakamado bushes (Japanese rowan). A 15km dirt road forks off National Route 273 to the trailhead; in peak autumn only shuttle buses are allowed. Sounkyo Gorge, north of Akadake, has hot springs and old-growth forests (about 60 tree varieties). There are buses from Ginsendai to Sounkyo. More:daisetsuzan.or.jp
Nyuto-onsenkyo, Honshu: In Akita Prefecture, on the main island’s northwest coast, these seven hot springs beneath Mount Nyuto allow visitors to bathe under red and gold old-growth trees. Kuroyu is the highest spring, with the earliest colour (in mid to late-October). The journey from Tokyo to Tazawako on the Akita Shinkansen takes three hours. More: nyuto-onsenkyo.com.
Hachimantai National Park, Honshu: The park extends across Iwate and Akita prefectures and into neighbouring Towada-Hachimantai Park. Yellow alpine lilies bloom into autumn among spectacular forest colours (early-late October). Travel time from Tokyo to Morioka on the Tohoku Shinkansen Line is 2½ hours. Catch a connecting bus to Hachimantai peak.

Towada-Hachimantai National Park, Honshu: In Aomori Prefecture, in the island’s far north, the park embraces Lake Towada-ko (sightseeing boats offer mountain views). Oirase Stream runs 14km from the lake; paths meander past streams and waterfalls, through beech and maples clothed in autumn colour. The 2.9km path from Ishikedo to Kumoi-no-taki Falls is a highlight (early-late October). Buses are available from Hachinohe Station (on the Tohoku Shinkansen Line) to Ishikedo (90 minutes), then it’s a short walk.

Hida Takayama, Honshu: This busy tourist town in Gifu Prefecture is a historic precinct of old streets and wood-frame houses. The surrounding township, bridges and shrines are quieter and wrapped in autumn-tinted mountainsides. Higashiyama Walking Course (4km) leads to Buddhist temples and Shiroyama Park for autumn-leaf viewing. Kitayama Walking Course, in the town’s north, leads through ginkgo, cherry and acer trees in Kitayama Park (mid-October to mid-November). Take the Takayama Honsen line from Nagoya to Takayama (2½ hours).

Momijidani-koen Park, Miyajima Island: The “valley of autumn leaves” is on the southwest of Miyajima Island, an hour from Hiroshima city. Miyajima is famous for its red torii gate “floating” on the tide, Itsukushima Shrine and ryokan stays. The park has wild deer and 1000 maple trees in five varieties. More: miyajima.or.jp.

Rikugien Garden, Tokyo: The Edo-era, shogun-built garden has 400 maple trees and pondside teahouses (late November-early December; night-time illuminations November 22-December 9). Catch the Metro Namboku Line to Komagome and walk to Rikugien.

Jingo-ji Temple, Kyoto: On the lower slopes of Mount Takao-san, the temple garden offers views over red-dyed Kiyotaki-gawa River Valley, from among the old maple trees (mid-late November, 9am-4pm). Bus services from Kyoto Station to Yamashiro-Takao. In Kyoto’s western hills, Yoshimine-dera temple offers city views over forests. Catch the train to Mukumachi or Higashimuko station, then a bus. More: jnto.org.au.